Gazing out onto the rich blue waters of the Mediterranean below, the boats floating on her calm surface, the pastel colors of the houses built into the sides of the cliffs which spring up nearly vertically from the ocean, I stop for several minutes in great appreciation of the beauty around me.
Positano and the vibrant blue waters below
pastel colored houses going straight uphill
The steep coastal mountains prevent any large population centers from forming and make traversing the area by land a slow and difficult ordeal. A single windy road snakes its way
through Italy's Gold Coast and at multiple points is simply too narrow for large vehicles to pass one another, each lane having to patiently wait its turn, as one looks out their window at the 500 foot drop below.
Tourism fills the coffers here, and the Amalfi Coast's mild climate, topography, and limited space makes any marketing of the destination extraneous.
Beaches are few and far between (literally) and all of them very rocky. Still, the small areas available are absolutely packed during the summer.
Food here is farm fresh, with most of the vegetables and fruits served from no more than a few kilometers away. The local specialty is a lemon liquor called "limoncello." It's often sold in bottles imitating Italy's boot-like shape in the world atlas.
Prices here are far more expensive than the rest of Italy as most of the consumption is touristic, coupled with the fact that commerce in the area takes more resources.
with narrow + steep streets mules are still used to transport goods
Within each population center rests at least one ancient church, containing paintings and frescos still on the walls from almost a millenia ago. The church was what society at that time plowed its limited resources into so it's not surprising that these are the structures which have survived.
video: interior of Amalfi's 13th century church
But juxtaposed to the natural beauty and ancient relics which act as magnets for the metal coins of tourists, it's easy to spotlight a root of Italy's economic problems. In Salerno consumed by thirst and hunger after a hike, I walked down the the city's main street at 2 PM on a Thursday; all the businesses were boarded up- siesta time.
the geletaria, the caffe, and another business all shut-down during the early afternoon on a weekday
I don't blame Italy for wanting to lead a good life full of sleep and drink- it's human nature. But honestly, the expectation of the countries of Southern Europe (Spain, Italy, Greece) to subsequently be bailed out by their better to do, more industrious Northern cousins is hypocritical and I completely understand the pushback from Germany and the Netherlands. The flip-side of human nature and why socialism on a mass scale simply is nearly impossible to make work.
Video: gorgeous views along a trail of the Amalfi Coast
Video: a tiny town above the cliffs of on the Amalfi Coast
Nevertheless, the Amalfi Coast is well worth visiting and one of Europe's most beautiful destinations. Just make sure to carry your own water during siesta time.
Video: in Italy, we have water, but we don't waste it- unlike Los Angeles
As a noted historian, I was recently asked to give a guest lecture at an Ivy League school which, for reasons of confidentiality, will remain nameless, about the history of Pompeii. Caring dearly about my readers, and even more so reducing my work load, here is a transcript of my talk at Harvard University:
remnants of Pompeii- thought to be a bakery
"Standard sunny summer Southern Italian day in the year 79 AD, and you're walking around drinking from an aqueduct which brings you water via a lead pipe, when, with all that toxicity affecting your brain, it suddenly dons on you, that, in fact, Italy has not yet been invented!
ruins of Pompeii
Tragically, before you can share your epiphany with anyone Mount Vesuvius erupts and buries you under tons of scalding volcanic ash, which, frankly, serves you right."
(murmur from the crowd as I adjust my papers and glasses which have fallen down the bridge of my nose)
"So 25 meters (80 feet) of volcanic ash buries Pompeii, kills you, your family, and everyone you know. Of course The Huffington Post which doesn't believe in personal responsibility will tell you that Ash is the victim as he was birthed to a volatile and fiery family.
But now, Ash Vesuvius has an attack of conscience over his mass murder (HuffPo: "No Ash! Volcanic society made you this way!) and decides to to physically protect what little remains of Pompeii.
Ash wraps protective arms around the city preserving what he didn't destroy by keeping the ruins free from air and moisture, which turned out to be a pretty stupid move, a guilty killer preserving the evidence of his crime, because a millenia and a half later, it was pretty easy for detectives (archaeologists) to know whom exactly was responsible for the destruction of the ancient Roman city.
Today Ash has largely been cleared, and as punishment, ends up in toothpaste at the dentist's office, hence the origin of the aphorism, "ashes to ashes."
Pompeii courtyard- statues added and worn down for effect by the Italian board of tourism
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So, despite its sordid history, Pompeii is still a great place to tour, and that honestly, while not a fan of Ash's original actions, I was a huge fan of his caring and preserving heart. Enjoy the below videos and photos below of remnants of the ancient city.
original frescos of Pompeii still preserved today!
One of the genius archaeologists noted that some of the blocks of ash excavated seemed hollow, both by sound and weight, so he decided to test his hypothesis by injected them with liquid plaster, and thus discovered shapes of bodies which, though had long ago disintegrated, the ash had already hardened around the shapes of their bodies.
Video: the exact position where a poor Pompeiin perished, trying to protect himself from the molten ash
boobs! Right? guys are expert spotters!
Pompeii stadium seating- original amphi-theater
Another incredible place to visit was a Pompeii brothel, which had a stone erection carved into the wall to denote the establishment.
look in the center above the small window and see the marker of a Pompeii brothel
no language barrier: just point to your desired sexual position
Inside the brothel you'll find a stone bed, upon which a very thin mattress was placed. This was designed to insure the customer (usually named John) cleared out quickly to let new ones in. If you didn't speak the language, no problem, just point to artwork on the wall for your preferred sexual position.
Video: inside a Pompeii brothel- pretty cool, though the service was lacking
reproduction of a million piece fresco found in Pompeii's wealthiest home.
Original in Naple's museum
the central square of Pompeii- with the criminal Vesuvius in the background
original decorations still on the walls- was very cool!
On the whole I would say that if you're around Southern Italy/ near the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii is a must see. Oh, and as described above, no need to worry about the language barrier.
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Food here is farm fresh, with most of the vegetables and fruits served from no more than a few kilometers away. The local specialty is a lemon liquor called "limoncello." It's often sold in bottles imitating Italy's boot-like shape in the world atlas.
