The Trail to Preikestolen- Spectacular Norwegian Nature

Priekestolen- the mythical preacher's chair/ pulpit rock, was described as a must see in Oslo. Following the must, I had taken the train to Bergen, then drove two days around windy roads, up and down mountains, and over the fjords by bridge and ferry.
At long last, we were ready to begin the two hour, often steep, hike to Preikestolen. Below are photos and videos of what you'll see on your way.

Norwegian nature is a site to behold. A vast country filled with forests and water. The stillness and serenity of it all is inspiring.  



'

love this photo of the fjord between the mountains





me by a small lake close to the summit







Click here to for photos and videos I took of Preikestolen itself- the pulpit rock

Norwegian Oil Fund Economics- They're all Millionaires, but Can't Afford Beer

Rising like an ancient sea monster in the middle of the fjord, an oil rig. Directly in view from Astrid's living room window, I ask for her thoughts.
"It means money and jobs," she proudly replies. 
oil rig on the Norwegian fjord
In the past Norway's economy relied heavily on fisheries, agriculture, textiles, and timber. Though people weren't starving, Norway was one of Europe's poorest countries.
In 1969, the country struck oil. 

The Oil Fund
Norwegian oil was treated as a national resource, and somehow the wealth didn't end up in the hands of a select few, as in the Middle East, whose royal families buy off the populace with very minimal distribution of the wealth.
Or Russia, whose citizens suffer while a kleptocracy of oligarchs squabble and grab every fistful of dollars they can from the collective table, the rampant corruption of Africa, or even the United States and Canada, where oil revenues primarily benefit private corporations, with a smattering of royalties paid to the government. 
While companies do benefit from the technologically difficult extraction of oil from the North Sea, and offshore labor like welders, engineers, and even cleaning crew get paid wonderful wages, the majority of revenues flow into a government run oil fund. 

How Big?
Care to guess how much Norway's oil fund is worth? Close to 900 Billion dollars (yes Dr. Evil,- you can put your pinky finger to your lips, 900 times.) That means if they were to disburse the fund to Norwegian citizens, every single baby, soldier, Grandpa, hooker, politician, and maid, would receive a check for over a million Norwegian krownes; even taking into account the cost of postage.
But don't anxiously wait for the postman. Since its inception the fund is allowed to spend 4% of it's worth each year in Norway, saving the rest for a rainy (a very rainy) day.
Norway's government anticipates two things. First, that within the twenty years, oil and gas will be an antiquated form of energy, as the cost of renewables is rapidly decreasing; second, even if oil and gas are still viable, Norway's production will decline and their reserves will eventually run dry. 
Hence, rather than spending every petro-dollar on the bling-bling malls and high-rises you see in Dubai, high octane cars, or diamond and gold chains, Norway puts the money into a national retirement account to ease the post oil transition for future generations, somehow ignoring the human impulse to spend now. 
Meanwhile the USA plunges further and further in debt.

Different Priorities
How many politicians in the US could resist raiding this fund if they inherited it? A different psychology exists in Norway, a more socialist outlook, combined with true faith true faith in government. 
Norway has no government debt or deficit (in fact they operate on a huge surplus), and education is free from pre-school through post graduate university, and healthcare is largely subsidized.

So Where's the Cash?
The fund is heavily invested in equities and real estate. The fund owns nearly 2% of all public European stocks, 1% of the American market, as well as property in most big cities around the world: New York, Boston, London, etc.
The money is invested fairly conservatively, and its 60% allocation into equities is based on the supposition that over the long term they are the safest and best yielding investments. 
Additionally, to garner Norwegian capital, companies must meet certain ethical standards. All tobacco stocks and companies deemed to cause too much environmental damage have been blacklisted. 

Plus + Minus
While Norway has done an amazing job with managing it's oil resources and wealth, it has done a far less acceptable job managing one of its oldest economic resources, fish stocks, which have plummeted to critical levels. 
To combat this, Norway has embarked on salmon farming, even investing some of the oil money into research, and exporting that technology to other fish farming nations of the world, such as Chile. 
video: how to tell farm raised from wild caught salmon

Norwegian companies are heavily regulated, especially with respect to labor relations. Unions have negotiated very high wages and rights for workers, surpassing even those in Sweden which is hard to fathom. Many Swedes come to Norway for the higher pay, and I am told they are often preferred hires, as they make less stink about labor laws than Norwegian citizens. 

As conservative as Norway is fiscally, (a friend of mine who has lived there for years describes Norweigens as "super cheap") the government deserves tremendous credit for how they've managed their wealth, a model which should be emulated at least to some degree not only by other sovereign nations, but also individuals. 

Yet, knowing what it's like to be poor and wanting to save what I made so I would have some breathing room, I can relate to Norway's attitude towards money, which is especially ingrained in the older generations which have known lack in the past. 
My friend Egil, involved in Norwegian politics, a multi-millionare, CEO and senior partner of a large asset management firm, tells me of how he sent his father on all expense paid trip for his 80th birthday to Norway's most beautiful and expensive hotel. Egil told his father everything was to be paid for with his American Express Black Card, and to spare no expense.
Upon arrival, his Dad checked in, went down to the bar for a beer, and upon being told the price, promptly sent his grandson to the liquor store to get him a six-pack. It was just too expensive.  

Are Danes the World's Happiest People? And other Scandinavian Stereotypes

Having now traveled to each of the Nordic countries, I wanted to respond with my new found knowledge to some common stereotypes/questions about the area.

Scandinavian women are empowered.
True: A lamentably told joke I heard from a Dane was that women would leave their man the first time he left the toilet seat up.
High salaries across the board (a cashier in a department store can take home $4,000, waitresses make $20 an hour + tips) coupled with a progressive tax system flattening out the income curve, means that women do not need a dual income household to survive.
Scandinavian women have the choice of the types of behavior they are willing to put up with from their mates, whereas females in poorer countries with not only less opportunities, but where they get paid far less for the same work, are much more dependent.
I'd conjecture that marriages which last here are likely more healthy than in less economically advantaged countries.

Scandinavia is super expensive. 
Norway, nature-wise, is so utterly stunning
True: Norway is the most expensive country in the world, and the rest of the Nordic countries are not far behind. Heavy consumption taxes (VAT) combined with onerous regulations on businesses only fuel the fire. Despite this, Scandinavia has about the highest standard of living on earth, and if your wallet can take the beating, I'd highly recommend visiting.  (especially Norway and Sweden)


Finland is a Scandinavian country.
False. Actually, neither Finland or Iceland are considered part of Scandinavia.
Finns look much more closely related to Russians than they do Swedes, and the language has few similarities with other Nordic countries.
While Icelandic people are far closer in appearance and language, my guess is that the other Scandinavian countries wanted to disassociate themselves from the vast amounts of incest which takes place there (everyone is related to one another.) That said, I doubt my explanation would hold up in court. ... Both Iceland and Finland are considered part of the Nordic region.

I hear the languages are all very similar.
Semi-False: As noted above, the Finnish language is quite different. Norwegians speak in a quite pleasant sing-songy cadence which leaves Swedes, who speak more neutrally, at a loss understanding them, while the Danish sounds like two old cats fighting while they spit up hairballs.
A hearty congratulations to the people of Denmark, as the Danish language has fought off worthy competitors in Chinese, Dutch, Arabic, and German, to retain its crown as the world's ugliest sounding language. (Travel tip: bring some headphones)
 
Poll after poll rates Denmark the "happiest" nation on earth.
(clearing throat ...) FALSE: And Danes would agree. The Danish people actively avoid eye contact, and are wary of outsiders, though people in their early 20's are more open,
Now, if you were to describe Danes as the most "content" people on earth, I'd be willing to listen.
There is less jealousy as incomes are not only high but fairly equal, and the state provides for those in need (healthcare, pensions, unemployment insurance, etc.) People in Denmark have what they need, there is no lack, and there is little class differentiation, and even if there are visible differences, acting as though you're better than others will earn you much social scorn.
This is actually becoming a problem in schools, as the smart kids pretend to be slow on the uptake, an effort to avoid the ire of their dumber classmates. "Don't stick out" is a learned behavior not only in Denmark, but most of Scandinavia.
The places where I have found the happiest, people, where you can immediately feel it in upon coming in contact with people, are tropical islands like Fiji and Bali. 
French girlfriend of my Danish friend David on his 23rd birthday- nice people
I hear Scandinavian women are both hot and sexually liberated. 
glasses works at the Stockholm airport. The airport! 
In a TSA job! And her friend- zowie!

Both true: I would have to say Sweden has the best looking women in the world (read more about Swedish looks) If you like tall, blonde women who are take care of themselves physically, as a majority of men do, you'll have be in heaven. The rest of the Nordic countries don't quite match Sweden (as they drink more/ smoke more, etc.) but it's hard to go wrong in the Nordics.
And yes, partly a function of their economic independence, women here are definitely sexually liberated.
You want more details? Sorry, I'm not one to kiss and tell.


Life for Locals in Rural Vikebygd, Norway + Organic Jam Making

Vikebygd, Norway

Kristine and I are invited to spend a night in the mythical hamlet of Vikebygb, a place I'm pretty sure I am making up, as no one either in or outside Norway has ever heard of it.
The village is rural, rural, rual Scandinavia, where ingredients for your omelet come from "the egg lady," rather than the local market; 15km away via windy roads. (motto: "Low selection, High prices!")
Vikebygb, Norway by the fjord
Egil and his wife Torill set us up for the evening in the cabin beside the cottage they use as a vacation retreat. As small as this village is, there are fewer full time residents.
I'm given a tour of the immaculate garden; Cherry, apple, and pear trees, black and red currants, raspberry, blackberry and blueberry bushes, almost any fruit which can be grown in this climate Egil cultivates. If you're hungry feel free to grab what you like off the branch. It's all in season, and positively delicious.
this beautiful cat was as friendly as most dogs, following me around
from place to place and purring whenever rubbed
Jam it Up
Inside the house, Egil shows me a practical solution for the kilos and kilos of fruit he harvests- jar upon jar of black currant jam made yesterday are stacked upon another. Previous harvests have already been given away to friends.

A lesson in organic jelly and jam making in Vikebygd, Norway

Egil describes the pleasure of cultivating his garden, how relaxing he finds it, the hours he spends creating his fruit preserves. Contrast this with the fact that he's a senior partner and CEO of a financial services firm which has billions of dollars under management.
The man can afford just about anything, but chooses to spend his time on the simpler things in life.
I believe such an attitude is far more common in Scandinavia than America, especially in our big cities where many perceive a pressure to distinguish themselves, a display of power often manifesting in high priced autos, mansions, and fancy watches frequently purchased on credit. The ego, never satisfied with what you have, always demanding more.
Throughout human history ego acted as a double edged sword, both a catalyst behind flourishing civilizations and our ever advancing technology, as well as being the predominant reason behind most of society's ills; grievances, jealousy, and war.
For the individual, the ability to enjoy the moment, to be at peace with whatever is going on, with the wealth of technology and abundance we have today, which Norway is a prime example of, is far healthier than constantly needing to "be more."
In all of Scandinavia, showing off, presenting yourself as superior in any way, is heavily frowned upon, with major social repercussions. I'm certain this is the partly the reason why the region feels much more chill, even their big cities, than places like LA or Paris.
Egil in jam preparation 
While Egil continues with his jams, the women take me to visit their friend in the neighboring village (half an hour away.) Astrid is the youngest 73 year old I've ever met, with energy to spare.
 My Norweigen friend Astrid with energy and a terrific sense of humor explains how to use a 100 year old toilet

Sipping a cup of tea, I enjoy listening to the hens clucking away excitedly in Norwegian. .
An hour or so, we're in the car, driving back around the fjord, arriving home without incident. Kristine gets under the covers, and nods off instantly, while I stay awake listening to the sounds of the countryside. For a guy from Los Angeles, I find silence to be an incredibly moving symphony. 

Travelling Around Norway by Car- Fjords + Stunning Nature

a lot of Norway's landscape are like this- gorgeous
The cheapest way to travel around the vast expanse of land that is Norway, calculating in the opportunity cost of your time, is undoubtedly to walk.
Gas runs over $10 a gallon, and if you think that's your biggest expense, you're in for an unpleasant surprise.
Criss-crossing most of the country are fjords- large inlets of brackish water (fresh mixing with that of the North Sea.) Although bridges span many, a number require boats to ferry you and your automobile across. It puts a solid dent in the wallet when you're shelling out $30-$70 five times over the course of your journey; double up on the way back. Ferries were literally my largest single expense during my Norwegian visit.
By the time we returned home from a 3 day excursion, the only thing that would come out of my wallet if you pulled it open were moths.
a ferry crossing the fjord- large bodies of water

"Time? I've got lots of that" 
Quantum physics has recently proven that time bends in rural areas due to the topography of the land, and not traveling in a straight line, takes longer to get from Point A to B, which explains why the locals drive infuriatingly slow. 
As many of the roads wind their way around hills and mountains, you'll often find yourself lacking the ability to safely pass a line of cars who are placidly following a truck or elderly person driving well below the speed limit. 

Nature
But it's not a one way trade-off, the good news is that while it might take awhile to traverse the country, you can take that time and enjoy the often stunning vistas and nature which Norway offers in abundance. 
While it's never fun to spend long periods of time in a car, you can pull over nearly anywhere, go for a hike, meditate, or just appreciate the natural beauty of the land. And if you want to camp/ sleep in your car, it's all perfectly safe. 
Now if they'd just spend some of their vast oil revenues on some more bridges I'd be able to get a hotel room and ditch the back seat of Kristine's car. But only if breakfast is included- food here ain't cheap either. 

Here are short excerpts from our journey around "rural" Norway. 
I put rural in quotes as almost all of Norway is like this
Lots + lots of forest in Norway

a lonely house in the middle of nowhere

Wild Berries, and Mountain Lakes in Bergen, Norway

I look down over Bergen, the city surrounding the fjord on all sides and winding its way up the mountains.
above the city of Bergen
My house is a kilometer up the hill from the last bus stop, furthest away from the city center, the end of the line. I'm surrounded by nature.
Kristine leads me on a short hike to her private lake she seems to share only with ducks and whatever unseen wildlife might be hiding. Among the flora blossoming in the Norwegian summer are wild lavender, raspberry, and blueberry bushes which my host and friend points out as we walk.
The trail arrives at lake's edge. We sit on the rocks, taking in the stillness and tranquility. We're far from any sounds of the city. Norway's population is small, and the country sparsely populated. The fact that there likely a plethora of similar bodies of water throughout the country.makes this spot no less perfect.
flowering rosebay willow herb (fireweed) in Norway
 SPLASH. Kristine has jumped in and dares me to join her. I take off my shirt, leap, and feel the chilly water engulf me. I playfully swim after the nearby ducks, momentarily breaking the existing harmony as they paddle nervously away.
I tread water, the sun still high in the sky at 8 PM, not a soul around, gazing at the tree lined banks.
The trail and the mountain lake I speak of

For me, the water's too cold to stay out longer. I return to the bank, pull myself out, and wait for Kristine who's enjoying her vigorous exercise. When she's done, we sit quietly for several minutes before retreating to her house. 
She starts making dinner. Wanting to contribute I head back outside and start picking wild raspberries. It takes me an hour, but I've finally gathered two small containers worth. I return to find a warm meal waiting for me. 
We eat outside, Kristine re-gifting the raspberries for dessert. I don't know if it's their freshness, or that that they're the bounty of my labor, but they taste absolutely amazing. We sit in silence, savoring the sweet and tart fruits of my labor. Here in the hills around Bergen, life is simple. Who needs anything more? 

Try the Fresh Whale Meat at the Bergen Fish Market + Moose (Norway)

King crab, lobster, salmon, halibut, moose, and whale, all fish caught in the local fjords and sold here at the Bergen Fish Market.
Some of you who are more adroit are screaming, "Rich, there's a massive error in your previous statement!!"
fish- it's what's for dinner
Well thank you for pointing it out (though I wish you'd do it more quietly) and you're right, halibut is a deep water fish and thus not available for capture in your average fjord.
But one thing you certainly can purchase here, a slice of the world's largest fish- whale. Yes, the delectable and fresh local catch makes its way into the hands of consumers right here in the center of Bergen.
Minke whale
Business Idea: The nearly ubiquitous smiling whale mascot pictured above found in most of the world's top tier restaurants, the "classy pig" with a monocle, the plump chicken giving me the thumbs up to dig in; all designed to increase consumption of their flesh by making the animal "cute." As this bizarrely seems to work, does anyone want to open a Vietnamese restaurant with me? If so, I already have the logo.

High sales taxes react with Norway's vast oil revenues like rocket fuel, pushing prices into the stratosphere- " $11 for a baguette, $10 for a beer, $32 a pound for salmon.
Many of the employees are foreigners, drawn by wages far higher than they could dream of earning in their native countries, I walk from stall to stall meeting Spaniards, Chinese, and Russians, working long hours and living as frugally as possible in the world's most expensive country, hoping they'll be able to bring home substantial savings to start a business, to purchase a flat, etc.


I sample the available cuisine. The salmon is unbelievably tasty, fresh, spiced just a touch. I'm also offered Minke Whale meat. I'm rarely one to say no, and before you PETA types get all in a huff, I want to state I didn't contribute to the demand by purchasing.
The whale catch is limited to 500 a year, and carefully controlled by the government (as are all things in Scandinavia.)
trying Minke whale meat in Bergen

In an area where it rains the majority of the year, today's unblemished sun radiates smiles upon normally stoic Norwegian faces, the market's atmosphere warming in kind.
 I chew on the moose sausage I've purchased, watching the surrounding hustle in the busiest part of this touristy town, as I dream of my Vietnamese restaurant and the crowds that would gather-- WOOF WOOF!

As a seasoned traveler, if I could offer one piece of advice, embrace the reality of where ever you are, of whatever the moment offers. And if you come to my grand opening, and have something against tasting dog, here, try some whale; it's Norway after all.

Bergen, Norway- the Gorgeous Pictorial

Norway's second biggest city, Bergen, sits on its Western Coast with a population of a mere 270,000, Nestled snugly between mountains on three sides, the ocean on the other, and its city center sitting on the fjord (an inlet where fresh and salt water mix.)
Here is a pictorial of the town for a quick glance. It's an absolutely lovely town, and when visiting Norway, worth taking a day or two to visit :) Enjoy!
the very pretty center of Bergen
Flags remind you what country you're in



Norway in the summer is lush and gorgeous


these houses run up the mountain about as far as they can before it gets too steep



Bergen is on a fjord, which is the actual center. The town merely surrounds it. 


Norway has forever been a mariners life. 

I stayed way way up the hill in this area, Norway has amazing nature