Vina Del Mar + A Little Bit on Chile

condos by the Pacific

A plane ride from Southern Chile, followed by a 2 hour bus ride straight from the Santiago Airport lands me in Vina Del Mar, a beachy central Chilean town on the Pacific. Immediately I head for the ocean and a walk along the boardwalk and high rise condos which line the area.
I'm there in mid fall, and the beaches are both empty and unspectacular. This echoes my sentiments of the town at large as I walk around.

an outdoor church- see the pews

the Pacfic Ocean rolling in

I've been in Chile for a few days at this point and have learned a few things worth sharing:
The average wage in Chile is about $800 a month, (based on current exchange rate) with $500 being the subsistence level for an individual. Wages here might not be high, but prices are. Food is almost on par with America, and the price gas is of course, global.
One the great laments in Chile is the fact that education cost$.
True, education for primary schools is "free," but most loving parents would much rather pay, as government run schools are "atrocious." Only the poorest attend gratis; mainly because they have no choice. In fact, Chileans make a direct correlation between rival Argentina's vastly superior public education system and their more affluent financial position.

park near the ocean

Chile, while being possibly the least corrupt country in South America (akin to being the driest fish in the ocean) the people still face major challenges. For example, the tale that pharmacies throughout the country have colluded on price for years comes into clear focus when I'm buying a small bottle of Listerine, what would be $1.50 in America costs in excess of $4 here. When a bar of chocolate rings up at double USA prices, I throw back the sweet.

plenty of street dogs in Chile- he's just a lazy mutt

I'm told that the neighboring fishing Concon might hold some interest for me. I take the 50 cent collective bus early in the morning, winding it's way through the street. It's not unpleasant, just crowded, a bit old, but well worth the savings compared to a taxi.
Not much here save a few restaurants, fishing boats, and pelicans all waiting for the fish to show.

pelicans of Concon, Chile

It's a grey day sitting by the beach. Time to move on to greener pastures. And I mean that proverbially, because the next stop will be the driest place on earth, the desert of Atacama.

fishing boats- Concon

castle by the sea

the Pacific- Concon, Chile

Cruce de Los Lagos- Argentina to Chile by Boat

Chilean Andean volcano - covered in clouds

Nahuel Huapi Lake (back in Argentina)

Two options: A bus for $40 around and over the Andes (5 hours) to get into Chile or the $230 Cruce de Los Lagos combining multiple boat and bus rides (9 hours,) supposedly far prettier. The one thing I am willing to pay a little more for is an experience, and clearly the bus will give me more to write about ... No, wait, opposite.
First bus ride to the dock at Nahuel Huapi Lake where we pay a tax to board onto the boat. There are numerous of these "small taxes" in less developed regions in the world, most of the time the majority of the money (if not all of it) ends up in the pockets of local politicians. "More caviar, mistress?"

Nahuel Huapi Lake as well

a river feeding the lake

Now, on the other side, I become absolutely taken by the color of the water feeding into the larger lake. So, so, so clear, and so blue.

super eerie but beautiful blue color- very clear water

Video: Eerily Colored Clear Blue Water in a River

the surrounding area

Lake Aguas Frias was next, and while the whole trip was spectacular, the beauty of this lake was easily the highlight. The emerald green, clear water glistens in the sun, the surrounding fall foliage adding flavor to the glassy surface. 

I was absolutely mesmerized not only by the lake, but also by a Brazalian couple who must have taken 500 pictures of each other in the 20 minutes it took to cross the lake. I realize that I'm in rarified air here, I am witnessing the Louvre of Narcissism. They would leave 23 year old Hollywood wannabe starlets numb and in disbelief. That said, I wish someone was there to take my picture. 

ready to board at Lago Aguas Frias- PS- that is ALL my baggage

Lake Aguas Frias- the stunning, ethereal green color of the water 

20 minutes across by boat- sheer awe

gorgeous water-

video: stunning waters and surroundings of Aguas Frias

we don't have H2O in LA- much less vistas and water like this

the other side of of Lake Aguas Frias

We leave the boat and the stunning Aguas Frias, and make our way through Argentinian customs. A fox watches over our activities, to make sure no "fowl" play is taking place.

foxy-loxy guards the Chilean border

We drive uphill and cross over into Chile. 

my first steps into the country of Chile

behind the clouds is the Chilean side of Mount Tronador

The area gets a tremendous amount of rain. It's one of the few locations on the globe with temperate rain forests, defined as getting over 80 inches of rain a year. It makes for huge lakes, and lush lush fauna, but in recent years snowfall and precipitation levels have fallen, while the glaciers recede. It worries local residents greatly, but hey, keep driving your one-man SUV you Dick Cheney types.

We stop at a Chilean hotel in the national park for a few minutes before continuing to Lago Todo Los Santos (All Saints Lake.)

crossing Lago Todo los Santos

All Saints Lake- Chile

video: Lago Todos los Santos

Probably the most interesting moment for me was watching how the local villagers get across this gigantic, hour across in a multi-million dollar catamaran, lake. 

Once spotted, and they only cross each way once a day, a man will hustle, grab someone in need of a ride, and sprint them to the larger ship. In this case the boat driver, once he got his first couple of passengers aboard, sprinted to where he could address the captain, and begged him to allow him to return with more people. 

The captain acquiesced, slowing the boat considerably, allowing him to go back and return with, in this case children with their school backpacks, who boarded with a great thank you. My guess this is a daily occurrence. Mr. Brightside says at least the villagers get to breath cleanest air on the planet ... 

video: villagers hitch ride on big boat

the volcano on the other side of the lake

All in all, the beauty of the trip, made it more than worth it. Hello Chile!

Goodbye Bariloche - I Got a License to Drive!

It's my last night in Bariloche, and I get a message request from an unknown entity on Facebook. I accept: there is a photo of my driver's license! Hostage situation? 

"I found your document. still you find yourself in Bariloche?"

I can't believe it! A couple of days ago I lost it while climbing Mount Tronador, which is ... 120km away! Lost it on a path no one traverses at the start of winter. Lost it an area with high wind, and deep ravines, where it could have easily fallen, literally into the abyss. 

But it's been found! And now she is coming to return it! What a miracle! 

I literally sprint out of the house and down to the street when the text comes they are near. With no demand for money, they hand it over to a grateful man. (if nothing else I'm saved an excruciating trip to the DMV and $30)  

And so in the below video, I leave you some encouragement just to enjoy life, to travel, to "carpe diem" despite whatever risks there might be, the inconveniences, the potential to lose valuables ... the world is still a wonderful place. 

my encouragement to travel Now!

and a few more photos of Bariloche as I hit the road!

a view of the ravine below

lakes and mountains

an icy river at the bottom of the ravine

Mount Tronador through the red leaves

a waterfall falls off the cliff and the glacier of Tronador

a twisted stump in the forest

a few of my favorite photos. I really can't do Bariloche justice.  

bright red berries in the hills of Patagonia

Hike in the Catedral Mountains to the Refuge Frey

I wake early, or what seems like early as the sun doesn't rise until 8 AM; I must catch the 8:15 AM bus to take me to the Catedral ski resort area. This one doesn't pass by too often. There is a ski lift up to the snow, but I take a different path and veer off in another direction, heading to the Refuge Frey. I walk through the fall forest, encountering few souls along the way.

I take in the early views of the lake, the pristine fall forests and her glorious colors, and try to keep my persistent thoughts to a minimum. 

near the start of the trail

gorgeous fall forest

triple water fall- glacial snow melt

mountain pass

As I climb higher, snow begins to cover the ground, which is convenient for me, as in my haste to leave I've forgotten my water bottle. I merely pick up a handful, and slide it into my mouth and wait for it to melt. Fortunately, the weather is not exactly "sweaty." 

getting higher

After 10km I finally make to The Frey. A small, frozen lake is surrounded by steepled peaks, with a veil of snow over their granite faces. I sat and stared as long as I could in the zero degree temperature. It's an absolutely breathtaking sight.

the Catedral Mountains surrounding the lake

black cat- pet of the Refuge Frey (wall on left.) Looks great in the snow

Catedral Mountains and the iced over pond they surround

the jacket wasn't off for long

you can see why they are called the "Cathedral" Mountains

Eventually I have to turn back. I miss a trail marker, and even knowing I was off the path, I continue to believe so long as I stay close to the descending river, I'd be able to find the trail again. Of course, if you look at what I found in the photo below, a big cat was on the hunt here not too long ago. 

puma tracks I found off the trail- maybe I should learn to stay ON the trail

Eventually the way down becomes impassable, and I head 20 minutes back uphill through the snow and bramble and find the marked trail.

snowy mountains. 

if wasn't so cold, I would have never left!

Certainly, Bariloche and the surrounding Patagonia area is one I would revisit in a heartbeat. If only it took as much time to fly there. Elon Musk?

video: the hike up to Refuge Frey