It's my last night in Bariloche, and I get a message request from an unknown entity on Facebook. I accept: there is a photo of my driver's license! Hostage situation?
"I found your document. still you find yourself in Bariloche?"
I can't believe it! A couple of days ago I lost it while climbing Mount Tronador, which is ... 120km away! Lost it on a path no one traverses at the start of winter. Lost it an area with high wind, and deep ravines, where it could have easily fallen, literally into the abyss.
But it's been found! And now she is coming to return it! What a miracle!
I literally sprint out of the house and down to the street when the text comes they are near. With no demand for money, they hand it over to a grateful man. (if nothing else I'm saved an excruciating trip to the DMV and $30)
And so in the below video, I leave you some encouragement just to enjoy life, to travel, to "carpe diem" despite whatever risks there might be, the inconveniences, the potential to lose valuables ... the world is still a wonderful place.
my encouragement to travel Now!
and a few more photos of Bariloche as I hit the road!
a view of the ravine below
lakes and mountains
an icy river at the bottom of the ravine
Mount Tronador through the red leaves
a waterfall falls off the cliff and the glacier of Tronador
a twisted stump in the forest
a few of my favorite photos. I really can't do Bariloche justice.
I wake early, or what seems like early as the sun doesn't rise until 8 AM; I must catch the 8:15 AM bus to take me to the Catedral ski resort area. This one doesn't pass by too often. There is a ski lift up to the snow, but I take a different path and veer off in another direction, heading to the Refuge Frey. I walk through the fall forest, encountering few souls along the way.
I take in the early views of the lake, the pristine fall forests and her glorious colors, and try to keep my persistent thoughts to a minimum.
near the start of the trail
gorgeous fall forest
triple water fall- glacial snow melt
mountain pass
As I climb higher, snow begins to cover the ground, which is convenient for me, as in my haste to leave I've forgotten my water bottle. I merely pick up a handful, and slide it into my mouth and wait for it to melt. Fortunately, the weather is not exactly "sweaty."
getting higher
After 10km I finally make to The Frey. A small, frozen lake is surrounded by steepled peaks, with a veil of snow over their granite faces. I sat and stared as long as I could in the zero degree temperature. It's an absolutely breathtaking sight.
the Catedral Mountains surrounding the lake
black cat- pet of the Refuge Frey (wall on left.) Looks great in the snow
Catedral Mountains and the iced over pond they surround
the jacket wasn't off for long
you can see why they are called the "Cathedral" Mountains
Eventually I have to turn back. I miss a trail marker, and even knowing I was off the path, I continue to believe so long as I stay close to the descending river, I'd be able to find the trail again. Of course, if you look at what I found in the photo below, a big cat was on the hunt here not too long ago.
puma tracks I found off the trail- maybe I should learn to stay ON the trail
Eventually the way down becomes impassable, and I head 20 minutes back uphill through the snow and bramble and find the marked trail.
snowy mountains.
if wasn't so cold, I would have never left!
Certainly, Bariloche and the surrounding Patagonia area is one I would revisit in a heartbeat. If only it took as much time to fly there. Elon Musk?
the peak of Mount Tronador in the morning- high on the glacier
We arrive at the Refuge Otto Meiling not long before nightfall, surprising the two workers there who haven't had a visitor to their lonely abode in several days. We're the only ones on the mountain that day, the only ones visiting the refuge.
Edu drinks a beer I buy him, as I question the employees about what it's like being high up on the glacier for two weeks at a time.
They tell me it's an adventure, and during the summer, there a lot of people going in and out, trying to conquer the peak of Tronador, something we won't be doing as it would be too dangerous with the added recent snowfall; step on a crevice hidden by white powder and fall to your death.
a look at the Refuge Mieling- outside and in
I inquire how supplies are brought to this distant cabin.
"Once a year a military helicopter brings us supplies, the rest of the time we carry food, paper, beer, and other supplies up the mountain ourselves," he pauses for moment, almost catching his breath imagining it, and then explains, "It's hard work."
They get most of their power from solar cells, but occasionally have to run a generator, as they are tonight- it's winter and the sun is lacking.
Outside the wind howls loudly. The stars are covered by clouds and we're 50 miles from civilization, there is zero outside light filtering in. It's the Andes at their best and loneliest. No cell signal, no internet, I soon retire upstairs.
I take one of a hundred mats (it's busier in the summer) and roll out my sleeping atop it. Although the downstairs is a sort of luxury version of a high-mountain base camp for the assault on Tronador's peak, the second story is no frills, a large room with a roof over it, one halogen lamp hooked up to the electrical system.
I wouldn't want to be here when it's full, tired hikers coming to and fro, rising in the middle of the night, snoring. As it is the wind the screams outside so strongly you can hear the weightless apparition changing direction. In fact, the gale is so ferocious the walls shake, keeping me awake as I wonder how much more force it might take to blow us off the cliff.
We wake in the morning, and after trail mix, instant coffee, and dried soup mix, gather our gear and set-off. The wind whips us fervently, as the condors watch our every move from high overhead. I wonder how much they're actively rooting against us, or whether they're more like casino executives, knowing the odds dictate a certain percentage of the time we'll make a mistake in our climb, and they'll be feasting.
a view off the edge I dare not take another step towards
Inexperienced as I am, it takes me awhile to put my snow-shoes on the face of the mountain. Frustrated by inability to grip, I remove my gloves to give myself a better chance of connecting the straps. By the time I'm successful, my hands feel like they have frostbite. Time to start moving and circulate the blood.
first time on snowshoes
The rest of the hike down was merely one, often calculated, step at a time, with several stops to take in the majestic views which I leave you below.
a waterfall falls into the ravine below
beautiful Patagonia
my backpack almost blends in
video: blue ice and the deep ravine under Tronador
near the tree line
amazing ey?
up, up, and over the ridge
video: not much said here, but get a view from near the tree-line as we descend
I've been in Patagonia several days, absolutely awed by the vistas and beauty.
"All of the Bariloche area is stunning," Adrian, my awesome AirBnb host tells me, "but you know, you're missing out on some magical views."
"Where?!" I demand.
Excitedly Adrian pulls out a paper map, and points to a white area (indicating permanent snow and ice in the form of a glacier) "Mount Tronador!" he exclaims.
"I must go!" I shout, pounding my fist on the table for emphasis.
"You must go!!" responds Adrian with a crazy look in his eye, upping the energy.
"I'm going!" my loud voice echoing in the cavernous house.
"You're going to amazed!!"
"I'm going to be amazed!" I yell as Adrian and I do a couple chest bumps while we jump up and down.
However, my friend attempted to pour some cold water on the adventure-
"The Refuge on the mountain for hikers closes in two days for winter. Need to go tomorrow as you'll need to spend the night on the glacier." - I'm in the middle of a strange land. I have no plans, I can squeeze it in.
"You'll need a professional mountain guide."- arranged with a few phone calls.
"You'll need proper equipment." - Adrian loans me a head lamp, gloves, a hat, hiking poles, and a suitable backpack.
"Snow shoes are a must." - rented downtown at a store
"You'll need to buy lots of food for hiking in the cold and an overnight stay." -- immediate trip to grocery store.
"The buses have stopped going to Pampa Linda (trailhead) as there is zero demand now, you don't have a way to get there." - I rent a car.
All this is done in one day. A lot of work and $$ for an overnight mission up a mountain, but hey, that's what we live for, right? Right?? Okay, just me then ...
Okay, maybe that's not exactly how it went it down, but we're both pretty passionate about nature and the beauty of the area, and I was excited about the prospect of ascending the famous mountain.
fall colors
trees and snow- maybe about half-way up the mountain
Wake up early and drive two hours to the trailhead. Getting all our gear in order takes time, which worries my guide Edu as snow and ice slows any mountaineer, and the last thing you want is to be caught on a freezing glacier when the sun goes down; death from exposure.
When we finally begin our trek the fall colors are in full splendor, and without exaggeration, we are the only souls on the mountain face. Continual movement keeps us warm.
Other than the wind whipping us more strongly with each step we take uphill, the silence is palpable, the only company we have are the Andean condors circling overhead.
video: condor on the ridge of the glacier
Getting closer to Tronador's peak
The air gets chillier, but the vistas become more splendid the higher we go. The reds and yellows against the sheer granite walls carved out by the glaciers, with snow accenting the tops of the mountains in a white veil, one can't help but feel a sense of awe in the midst of the beauty. It permeates the soul, and awakens a stillness within.
yellow, oranges, reds, granite and white
Unfortunately, we don't have the time to just sit there and admire the view, as making it to the refuge by nightfall is literally life or death. We climb through the snow, condors watching our every move, should we slip and fall into the deep ravine below, they'll be ready to take care of business. In the meantime, we just keep climbing.
check out the blue ice above the waterfall- my favorite shot of the trip
granite carved over eons by glaciers
yup, nature
condor flying over the icy ridge
Eventually we reach the Refuge Meiling, having ascended 1050 meters and covered 14km of ground. Darkness falls shortly, the temperature dips below zero, and the howling wind blows with such force it makes two tired hikers munching on trail mix incredibly grateful to be inside.
spooky colors of dusk on a quiet "Thunder" Mountain
the waterfall off the side of the Mount Tronador's glacier
view climbing Mount Tronador
making it to the Refuge Meiling shortly before nightfall, you
can't hear much of what I say due to the wind, but enjoy the scenery
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