The watch tower |
Traffic congestion in Hanoi pales when compared with Bangkok, yet it's generally easier to traverse BKK as fairly decent public transport (the BTS Sky Train or the metro) is available. The only public transport in Hanoi is the bus, which packs people in like sardines, and due to lack of maneuverability, takes longer reach a destination than the ubiquitous motorbike.
Hanoi has a population of 7 million people and 3 million
motorbikes line the roads. And when I say “line the roads,” I mean that
literally. In many areas of Hanoi, especially the old quarter, a domino like set-up of motorbikes takes up the entire sidewalk, forcing pedestrians
into the street, like a sandy beach lined with impassable boulders forcing you
to wade into shark infested water.
The sharks circle around you, viewing you as an added impediment
to their forward progress, but you’re the one who has to be mindful,
because if one slams into the pedestrian, it’s game over for you.
*HONK* Feel the whoosh of air as a bike whizzes by from behind, traveling on the wrong side of the road, missing you by inches, as the dissonant sound of the horn reverberates
in your ear. With every near miss, your body releases the fight or flight hormones of adrenaline and
cortisol into your system. By the fifth time you see your life flash before your eyes, your nervous system has simply been overloaded like a computer about to crash.
check out the traffic and the sidewalks filled with bikes
The Noise
Duck immediately into a restaurant. Even after the owner
graciously closes the door per your request, the loud sounds of horns and motorbikes
accelerating with the baffles off, penetrates, grinding on you. It's unavoidable, never ending.
Pollution
Throughout Asia you’ll witness many people walking around wearing
surgical masks, even wearing them in office buildings. I always thought it was
overkill, wondering how much protection it truly offered, but if I had stayed any
longer in Hanoi, I might have adopted this practice myself.
With an endless stream of motorbikes and outdated automobiles
rolling by, kicking up dirt, most void of the most basic pollution controls,
you can feel your lungs aging as they try to expel the foreign particles you continually
suck in. Might as well fall asleep in the smokers lounge at the airport.
What to See
The most interesting thing I saw in Hanoi was a statue of Vladamir
Lenin in the park. While Vietnam is still technically under a Communist regime, like
everywhere else, capitalism has won out in practice. To me, gazing upon Lenin here is like
bearing witness to a statue of Jim Jones still standing in Jonestown; a reminder of Kool-Aid the
population was forced to drink.
Vladamir Lenin in Hanoi |
Museum
of Culture/ Entomology
Half the museum was devoted to teaching Vietnamese history, and allowing a visual glimpse into the culture of its tribes, some of which are still out there largely living as they have for hundreds of years. The other half was a devoted to a safe sex exhibited for Vietnamese youth. I found it bewildering.
Half the Museum of Culture is devoted to artifacts like this the other half- a safe-sex exhibit |
Architecture
I was promised that I would be witness to some beautiful
French colonial architecture. While I never expect Prague or Barcelona in SE Asia, not a single building here captured
my attention. As in many poor regions of the world, most of the structures are
in need of upkeep, and are in state of rapid deterioration.
The yard of the Temple of Literature |
Friendly Communists?
It’s not that the people in Hanoi are unfriendly, I simply found them less warm and welcoming than other areas of SE Asia, such as Laos and Myanmar. In all honesty I theorize that this is partly a function of Communistic
bureaucracy, as, once in office, peoples’ individual rights like freedom of speech are stripped away for the “greater good;” the true purpose of this action being to insure those in power stay there.
The population rapidly learn to be careful of what escapes their mouths/ opening up to strangers. Eventually it becomes part of the culture. Additionally, there isn't a Communist regime who didn't impoverish their people, that's a deep hole to dig out from under. The closer you are to the epi-center (Moscow, Beijing, etc.) the greater the affect. Hanoi, post-Vietnam War, was the country's capital.
You can feel a slight hardness, an edge amongst the population if
that makes an sense.
And by the way, to those of you rolling your eyes, by no means does this apply to everyone. I
met some very gracious and friendly people as well. There just isn't the same openness as I've experienced throughout the majority of SE Asia.
Recommendation
It’s rare I say skip a place, but I’m afraid
that’s my verdict for Hanoi. There’s little to see, and walking the
streets is positively draining. Save your adrenal glands, and go elsewhere in
Vietnam.
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